Progress photo, August 20 2010:
Progress:
Before:
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To remove/demolish: We will not want the remaining white shelves in the 4-foot area on the west wall ... those need to be removed along with the semi-built-in cabinet of shelves in the southeast corner. Probably you would like to get a dumpster bag for these parts and I can pay for that too.
Protect carpeting; Something for your equipment list -- please put down sheets, canvas, or some kind of material connecting from the garage service door all the way to the opening of the office to help protect the carpet. Thank you!
Electrcial plan: http://kirk-johnson.blogspot.com/2010/06/basement-office-notes.html. This is the best I could do without having actual electrical knowledge. I want to be sure that we use the newer squarish white outlets and outlet covers, not the older ivory roundy ones. I think that if we need more plug-ins than shown, we can just use some power strips under the counter. If you think we should be having another outlet added go ahead. I don't want any above-counter electrical boxes (except if you want to leave the one where it is 3/4 up the wall near the laundry area, that is OK) because we can drill some grommets on the counters and use the grommet cover that you may have seen where a circular slide can cover to make a surface nearly flush with the countertop or slide open to give an opening for cords. This is a detail that can be done last, near the end of the project. So, all outlets/ether&cable can be positioned under the counter height which can be the standard height above the ground.
Right angle :The southeast corner of the desk was drawn as either a right angle or a angled corner -- I think a basic right angle is best. So, regular corner for there.
Finished height of the desktops (top of surface to bottom of supports) should be designed for 28.5 inches. I don't know how these will be built, but I would like them to be custom-cut to fit in the spaces end-to-end with no or little gaps at the ends by the walls. As best as possible, I'd like them to appear as one long continuous surface, making the L-shaped counter on the east and south walls plus the smaller individual area that is about 4' on the west wall. They should rest all the way to the back of the wall so that they are flush with the back of the counter top where it meets the wall. However I have no desire for them to be secured to the wall. If they are resting on the supports by gravity, then it would seem easier to be able to raise a section if needed some day (but not planning on it for now) and we could move them out for re-painting or other purposes some day.
Depth: How deep (distance from the wall to the front of the desk edge where a person sits) do the countertops go? 29" is noted for along the east wall, and 24" on the south wall (smaller to give room to walk in from the door opening). If these measurements are not helpful for the size of maple wood you get let me know and I can look at other options. The countertop depth for the west wall small desk area can be up to 29" deep. As noted above, finished height on the desks should be 28.5 inches.
Insulation: Regarding finishing the walls to add the electrical and drywall, whatever is best to avoid danger of mold and maximizing heat efficiency. I think you advised against insulation in the ceiling, but if you think it will be worth the labor and material cost let's insulate there too for noise reduction but if it's really not going to make much of a difference than let's skip it.
Carpeting: After the new wall is built next to the sink, I can call home depot to make the carpeting measurement appointment. I'll be extending the existing carpeting into the room. I'm having Home Depot do this .
Above counter shelves and shelves to the right and left of entry doors: I am pretty sure you did not estimate any of this work, but if you did, let's talk about those later!
